As I was walking from Aga Khan University Campus to Noorabad colony for a volunteer duty, the strap on my sandals broke. I could have walked back to my residence but that would mean that I would be late for my duty. And so I made it to the colony by dragging my feet as I was not about to walk barefoot! On my way to the colony, a bird decided to go to the toilet on my head! It wasn't enough that I could barely walk but now I have bird doodoo on my head.

Now this situation made me laugh. I could not stop laughing! And then I realized something about myself. I realized that before coming to Pakistan this situation would have made me irritated and frustrated. I may have said, "It's just one thing after the other! Why does it have to happen to me!" But after living in Karachi for approximately 3 months now, I have seen death, poverty, and destitution but I have also seen hope and happiness amongst all this. And so I have seen a change in myself. By crying over petty problems, not only have I realized that I become ungrateful for the blessings showered upon me but it shows complete disregards towards others and their situations. One tends to become unsympathetic and fails to realize that we do not live in isolation.

I am finally beginning to understand Pakistan's deep roots and history and why there is so much controversy in Pakistan. Understanding the situation in Pakistan is very complicated as it involves multiple factors.

It is only through understanding the past can we truly appreciate the present and prepare for the future. Hence, I wish to share some interesting historical facts. However, I will not dwell into too many details.

Pakistan gained independence from British India on 14 August 1947 in order to establish an independent Muslim state. Pakistan's Independence was possible through the works of the All India Muslim League, which was found in 1906 to protect Muslim interests. The League became popular in the late 1930s amidst fears of neglect and under-representation of Muslims in politics.
Many Muslims feared that an independent united India would subsequently be "ruled by Hindus." There would then be a need to address the issue of Muslim identity within India. Some important individuals that spear-headed the Muslim league were: the poet Muhammad Iqbal, Muhammad Ali Jinnah (founder), and Sir Sultan Mohammad Shah Aga Khan III.

Pakistan means "the Land of the pure or clean." It is composed of letters taken from the names of Pakistan's provinces: Punjab, Afghania (North West Frontier Province), Kashmir, Sindh, and Balochistan. You are probably wondering where the ' i ' came from. Actually, Pak Stan wasn't flowing and that is why ' i ' was added. Pakistan is a federation of four provinces (Sindh, Punjab, Balochistan, and NWFP), a capital territory (Islamabad), and federally administered tribal areas (Northern areas). However, tribal areas exist in NWFP as well as in Baluchistan.

The National language of Pakistan is Urdu and the official language is English. However, during independence Aga Khan III had suggested Arabic as the national language for Pakistan. This suggestion was not taken to heart, obviously. If Arabic was adopted as the national language then Pakistan would not only be united as a country but also with other Islamic countries such as Saudi Arabia and Egypt. Conflicts that are now occurring in Pakistan are mainly due to issues over language and the presence of multiple sectoral and tribal divisions. Keep in mind that the provinces have been divided based on language: Sindhi is spoken in Sindh, Punjabi in Punjab, Balochi in Baluchistan and Pastun in NWFP. Within these provinces, there are various linguistic dialects of a particular language. For example, Sindhi consists of multiple dialects, including Katchi. Recently, Balochistan is protesting to be an independent state, separate from Pakistan. You may remember what happened with Bangladesh.....


More lessons on Pakistan's history to come.....

When we were in the Northern areas, we got to witness how people lived in the most remotest areas.

For those living high in the mountains, they have to face extreme cold temperatures. To make matters worse they do not have heating or electricity, something we in the developed world take for granted. Many a times I witnessed an entire family huddled around a stove in the center of the room. Young kids would gather wood and twigs in order to keep the fire going.

For those living in isolated villages, it takes at least two hours to get to the nearest health center. Imagine if there is a medical emergency (ex. heart attack) and the individual needs to be taken to a hospital right away. As a cardiac nurse working in a hospital, I have everything at my disposal in case of medical emergencies like this. As you can tell working in conditions like these is no easy task. Thankfully, Aga Khan Health Services, Pakistan in collaboration with the government has and is continuing to train community birth attendants, health workers and lady health workers. Therefore, a pregnant mother does not need to deliver at a health center if a trained birth attendant is present and residing within that community.

Living close to the mountains come with multiple risk factors. For example, as the glaciers melt the road conditions become treacherous. Landslides and mudslides make it difficult to access the only road leading to the city center, where one can find health centers, stores, etc...
If these roads are accessible, they are extremely narrow and dangerous with sharp curves. Night driving is next to impossible.

Even in Karachi, where living conditions are not always "first world standards," I am extremely thankful for all of life's little and big pleasures.

In the book, "Three Cups of Tea, a man initially sets out to climb one of the highest peaks, K2, but loses his way and ends up in the most remotest area in the Northern Areas. The first man he meets is Haji Ali, who imparts this wisdom to the lost traveller:

"The first time you share tea with a Balti, you are a stranger. The second time you take tea, you are an honored guest. The third time you share a cup of tea, you become family.

During my encounters with the people in the Northern areas, chai (tea) was offered to us everywhere we went. Sometimes chai was served with boiled eggs, trout, or dried fruits. Never did we leave some one's home without a warm cup of chai. If you were to say, "No, thank you," the reply would be, "but this is our culture!" Another common expression was, "wont you stay for a meal?" Their warm welcomes and beautiful spirits made this trip truly exceptional.

We actually had to make home visits for work purposes. However, during these "chai sessions" the atmosphere would completely change. Mind you we accomplished quite a bit of work but there was a sense of comfort and soon enough bonds of friendship were suddenly formed. Jokes were made and stories were shared.

The funny thing is that it didn't take 3 cups of tea for us to become a family. 1 cup was more than enough.

I never realized the power of chai until now. We have tea on a regular basis and if you are of African or Indo-Pak decent, your day consists of up to 5 cups of chai. I have realized that chai brings people together. When amongst family and friends, one can sit for long hours with a cup of chai. One topic leads to another and time passes by swiftly! Even when one is dealing with life's problems, a cup of chai with close ones is extremely comforting. Even when chai is shared with complete strangers, it does not take long for friendships to be forged. I assume it is not the contents of chai (black tea) as herbal tea serves the same purpose. I guess I am still trying to understand this phenomenon.

I had recently ventured out to the Northern Areas with Aga Khan Health Services, Pakistan for approximately a week. I had the wonderful opportunity to visit Aga Khan Health Centers in Hunza-Nagar, Gilgit, GaKhuch, and other small towns. The purpose of this trip was two fold: to conduct data analysis in the northern areas regarding infant mortality as well as to conduct evaluations regarding quality of health care provided by Aga Khan Health Centers located throughout the Northern areas.


The next few blogs will be about my experience up north.


I was conversing with a friend, M.A, about my experience up north upon my arrival. I had expressed to him my delight in witnessing nature's beauty. I was in awe at the sight of luscious green valleys, beautiful cherry blossoms, the majestic mountains, and the peaceful sapphire waters. But this saddened me because I realized that Pakistan is both blessed and cursed. Blessed to possess such beauty, a manifestation of the Creator. Cursed because she has been eroded with ignorance, terror, and poverty. M.A added, "Pakistan is a paradox." This got me thinking....


Some individuals drive around in Mercedes and BMW's while others walk for long hours to travel from point A to B.

So many do not have even 10 rupees in their pockets while others literally throw wads of money.

Some walk around with expensive brand name clothing while others possess only the dirty and torn clothes on their backs.

There are hard-working, honest labourers who just can not get a break but there are also those who achieve a luxurious life unethically.

Men can get whatever they desire with a snap of a finger while a woman is required to have 4 Muslim male witnesses to attest she has been raped (actual Pakistani law)