Friday, May 15, 2009

As part of the special lecture series, AKU invited Nazir Sabir last week to share his experiences with AKU staff and students. Just a quick overview, AKU lecture series has invited such guests as Abeeda Parveen and Karen Armstrong.

Nazir is a mountaineer, an environmentalist and a humanitarian. Born in the lap of the Korakorakum in the Northern areas of Pakistan, Nazir has developed a keen love for mountains at a very young age. With mountains at every corner, Nazir believed that he would be able to see all of Pakistan and her cities from the mountain top. Nazir has climbed almost all the mountains in the Northern areas, including the Rakaposhi , and is the first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest. His inspiration and motivation stems from sheer fascination and love for the Divine creation. His talk was truly inspiring and thought-provoking and that is why I am sharing with you his stories and his words of wisdom.

“Mountains always have something to give to all”

“Mountains strengthens belief about eternity”

“One develops an eternal relationship with nature”

“We realize how insignificant we are when we up against a mountain”

“Even though the mountains took my brothers life, I continue because like anything else, you are always living under the shade of death”

“When you are climbing, you are putting your life in the hands of nature-you are at her mercy”

“Mountains allow you to discover your strengths and your weaknesses”

“Climbing is similar to making a pilgrimage”

“As Pakistani, I wonder if we truly deserve such beauty. Have we really been able to take care of this?”

“We Pakistanis travel the world but we have yet to discover our own land”

“It is sad that our youth are losing connection with nature”

“We climb our own mountain everyday. We fall but we get up but we learn from our mistakes”

“One really appreciates the meaning and value of life”

Nazir talked about one of his near death experiences as he was falling off a mountain. He started to have a dialogue with God, fighting with the Great Power that he was not “ready to die.” He tried to negotiate with God in the attempt that God would grant him a second chance. After many negotiations, he felt defeated and started to accept his fate. He proclaimed, “I am ready!” However, soon after his acceptance, Nazir found himself close to the edge of the mountain but safe. He was granted a ‘second chance.’

Nazir attempted to climb the K2 twice. His first attempt claimed the lives of 5 of his closest friends and climbing partners before reaching the summit. However, Nazir made a promise to himself and his friends that he would attempt the k2 again-that he would not give up. After a long and arduous climb during his second attempt, Nazir and new his partners reached the summit of K2 hand in hand. However, this moment was an emotional moment for Nazir as memories of his late friends overpowered him. He shared with us a picture depicting him at the summit of K2, kneeling and prostrating before the Divine. Submission to the Divine will and grace. There he offered prayers for his friends and the rest of their souls. If a picture could say a thousand words, this one was it.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Human beings are complex individuals whose survival depends on the continuous interchange of multiple factors. Similarly, sustainable and equitable community development can only be achieved through an integrated approach. Hence, it is seen as a multi-input strategy, as described by His Highness. It involves collaborating with grass roots levels in order to address their needs. The emphasis is on what they perceive to be important. His Highness states, “The disadvantaged amongst us must be able to build a sound and secure future with dignity and pride - and not merely to survive” (Islamabad-11th-March-2002). It is also imperative to understand that developmental efforts should reach to the masses and not to a selected few. Since majority of the world’s population live in rural areas, efforts should be directed towards them.

Let me bring you back to the Northern areas as in example. The Aga Khan Development Network is involved in various projects that serve to provide rural stabilization to this mountainous region. The Aga Khan Rural Support Program, The First Microfinance Bank, Teacher Training Program, Aga Khan Planning and Building Services, and Aga Khan Trust for Culture are only a few agencies within the AKDN whose aim is to enhance the quality of life and living standard of people living in the Northern Areas. From innovations in water and land management to providing supportive infrastructure such as roads, irrigation channels, and small bridges, AKDN’s presence has proved to be instrumental in re-shaping the community and the lives of its people. Individuals now have access to services and resources, which was once impossible. Cultures are crossing that bridge of understanding and acceptance as they are exposed to each other’s way of life. Historic places and forts (ex Baltit Fort) have been and are in the process of being restored so as to revive the community’s rich history. A lesson that I have learned as a Heritage Discovery Program Delegate is that reviving a country’s history through restoration also provides economic stability and expands the labour market. Local folks become contributing members of society through empowerment and capacity building.

Friday, April 24, 2009

As I was walking from Aga Khan University Campus to Noorabad colony for a volunteer duty, the strap on my sandals broke. I could have walked back to my residence but that would mean that I would be late for my duty. And so I made it to the colony by dragging my feet as I was not about to walk barefoot! On my way to the colony, a bird decided to go to the toilet on my head! It wasn't enough that I could barely walk but now I have bird doodoo on my head.

Now this situation made me laugh. I could not stop laughing! And then I realized something about myself. I realized that before coming to Pakistan this situation would have made me irritated and frustrated. I may have said, "It's just one thing after the other! Why does it have to happen to me!" But after living in Karachi for approximately 3 months now, I have seen death, poverty, and destitution but I have also seen hope and happiness amongst all this. And so I have seen a change in myself. By crying over petty problems, not only have I realized that I become ungrateful for the blessings showered upon me but it shows complete disregards towards others and their situations. One tends to become unsympathetic and fails to realize that we do not live in isolation.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

I am finally beginning to understand Pakistan's deep roots and history and why there is so much controversy in Pakistan. Understanding the situation in Pakistan is very complicated as it involves multiple factors.

It is only through understanding the past can we truly appreciate the present and prepare for the future. Hence, I wish to share some interesting historical facts. However, I will not dwell into too many details.

Pakistan gained independence from British India on 14 August 1947 in order to establish an independent Muslim state. Pakistan's Independence was possible through the works of the All India Muslim League, which was found in 1906 to protect Muslim interests. The League became popular in the late 1930s amidst fears of neglect and under-representation of Muslims in politics.
Many Muslims feared that an independent united India would subsequently be "ruled by Hindus." There would then be a need to address the issue of Muslim identity within India. Some important individuals that spear-headed the Muslim league were: the poet Muhammad Iqbal, Muhammad Ali Jinnah (founder), and Sir Sultan Mohammad Shah Aga Khan III.

Pakistan means "the Land of the pure or clean." It is composed of letters taken from the names of Pakistan's provinces: Punjab, Afghania (North West Frontier Province), Kashmir, Sindh, and Balochistan. You are probably wondering where the ' i ' came from. Actually, Pak Stan wasn't flowing and that is why ' i ' was added. Pakistan is a federation of four provinces (Sindh, Punjab, Balochistan, and NWFP), a capital territory (Islamabad), and federally administered tribal areas (Northern areas). However, tribal areas exist in NWFP as well as in Baluchistan.

The National language of Pakistan is Urdu and the official language is English. However, during independence Aga Khan III had suggested Arabic as the national language for Pakistan. This suggestion was not taken to heart, obviously. If Arabic was adopted as the national language then Pakistan would not only be united as a country but also with other Islamic countries such as Saudi Arabia and Egypt. Conflicts that are now occurring in Pakistan are mainly due to issues over language and the presence of multiple sectoral and tribal divisions. Keep in mind that the provinces have been divided based on language: Sindhi is spoken in Sindh, Punjabi in Punjab, Balochi in Baluchistan and Pastun in NWFP. Within these provinces, there are various linguistic dialects of a particular language. For example, Sindhi consists of multiple dialects, including Katchi. Recently, Balochistan is protesting to be an independent state, separate from Pakistan. You may remember what happened with Bangladesh.....


More lessons on Pakistan's history to come.....

Sunday, April 19, 2009

When we were in the Northern areas, we got to witness how people lived in the most remotest areas.

For those living high in the mountains, they have to face extreme cold temperatures. To make matters worse they do not have heating or electricity, something we in the developed world take for granted. Many a times I witnessed an entire family huddled around a stove in the center of the room. Young kids would gather wood and twigs in order to keep the fire going.

For those living in isolated villages, it takes at least two hours to get to the nearest health center. Imagine if there is a medical emergency (ex. heart attack) and the individual needs to be taken to a hospital right away. As a cardiac nurse working in a hospital, I have everything at my disposal in case of medical emergencies like this. As you can tell working in conditions like these is no easy task. Thankfully, Aga Khan Health Services, Pakistan in collaboration with the government has and is continuing to train community birth attendants, health workers and lady health workers. Therefore, a pregnant mother does not need to deliver at a health center if a trained birth attendant is present and residing within that community.

Living close to the mountains come with multiple risk factors. For example, as the glaciers melt the road conditions become treacherous. Landslides and mudslides make it difficult to access the only road leading to the city center, where one can find health centers, stores, etc...
If these roads are accessible, they are extremely narrow and dangerous with sharp curves. Night driving is next to impossible.

Even in Karachi, where living conditions are not always "first world standards," I am extremely thankful for all of life's little and big pleasures.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

In the book, "Three Cups of Tea, a man initially sets out to climb one of the highest peaks, K2, but loses his way and ends up in the most remotest area in the Northern Areas. The first man he meets is Haji Ali, who imparts this wisdom to the lost traveller:

"The first time you share tea with a Balti, you are a stranger. The second time you take tea, you are an honored guest. The third time you share a cup of tea, you become family.

During my encounters with the people in the Northern areas, chai (tea) was offered to us everywhere we went. Sometimes chai was served with boiled eggs, trout, or dried fruits. Never did we leave some one's home without a warm cup of chai. If you were to say, "No, thank you," the reply would be, "but this is our culture!" Another common expression was, "wont you stay for a meal?" Their warm welcomes and beautiful spirits made this trip truly exceptional.

We actually had to make home visits for work purposes. However, during these "chai sessions" the atmosphere would completely change. Mind you we accomplished quite a bit of work but there was a sense of comfort and soon enough bonds of friendship were suddenly formed. Jokes were made and stories were shared.

The funny thing is that it didn't take 3 cups of tea for us to become a family. 1 cup was more than enough.

I never realized the power of chai until now. We have tea on a regular basis and if you are of African or Indo-Pak decent, your day consists of up to 5 cups of chai. I have realized that chai brings people together. When amongst family and friends, one can sit for long hours with a cup of chai. One topic leads to another and time passes by swiftly! Even when one is dealing with life's problems, a cup of chai with close ones is extremely comforting. Even when chai is shared with complete strangers, it does not take long for friendships to be forged. I assume it is not the contents of chai (black tea) as herbal tea serves the same purpose. I guess I am still trying to understand this phenomenon.

Monday, April 13, 2009

I had recently ventured out to the Northern Areas with Aga Khan Health Services, Pakistan for approximately a week. I had the wonderful opportunity to visit Aga Khan Health Centers in Hunza-Nagar, Gilgit, GaKhuch, and other small towns. The purpose of this trip was two fold: to conduct data analysis in the northern areas regarding infant mortality as well as to conduct evaluations regarding quality of health care provided by Aga Khan Health Centers located throughout the Northern areas.


The next few blogs will be about my experience up north.


I was conversing with a friend, M.A, about my experience up north upon my arrival. I had expressed to him my delight in witnessing nature's beauty. I was in awe at the sight of luscious green valleys, beautiful cherry blossoms, the majestic mountains, and the peaceful sapphire waters. But this saddened me because I realized that Pakistan is both blessed and cursed. Blessed to possess such beauty, a manifestation of the Creator. Cursed because she has been eroded with ignorance, terror, and poverty. M.A added, "Pakistan is a paradox." This got me thinking....


Some individuals drive around in Mercedes and BMW's while others walk for long hours to travel from point A to B.

So many do not have even 10 rupees in their pockets while others literally throw wads of money.

Some walk around with expensive brand name clothing while others possess only the dirty and torn clothes on their backs.

There are hard-working, honest labourers who just can not get a break but there are also those who achieve a luxurious life unethically.

Men can get whatever they desire with a snap of a finger while a woman is required to have 4 Muslim male witnesses to attest she has been raped (actual Pakistani law)